Greetings! We recently returned from a trip to The Republic of Côte d’Ivoire (République du Côte d’Ivoire in French; hereafter referred to as Côte d’Ivoire; koht dih-VWAH; country #106), where we were able to experience the capital city of Abidjan (ah-bee-ZHAH), and the original capital, Grand Bassam. Below, you will find information and photos from our trip. Please note that there are references to Voo Doo, which is practiced in a limited capacity in this region. This should be considered neither an endorsement of nor for nor against the practice/culture associated with Voo Doo. Please also note that there are references to slavery within this post.
Côte d’Ivoire is a country in northwestern Africa that is bordered by Mali and Burkina Faso to the north, Guinea to the northwest, Liberia to the southwest, Ghana to the east, and the Gulf of Guinea (which connects to the Atlantic Ocean) in the south. Côte d’Ivoire has 28 million people, 6.5 million of whom live in the capital of Abidjan.
Côte d’Ivoire history begins with several kingdoms that were fully established before colonization. This included a Muslim empire, which grew in current-day northern Côte d’Ivoire. It also included the Asante (ah-SAHN-tay) Empire, the capital of which was Kumasi (in Ghana), and incorporated aspects from the Akan (ah-KAHN) culture.
Prior to the 19th century, Europeans (French and Portuguese) focused on the coast, with the trading of slaves and ivory. Over time, the chiefs on the coast were approached by the Europeans, and treaties were signed to allow for building of forts and places to trade. This ultimately resulted in the French establishing Côte d’Ivoire as a colony in 1893. As a result, French is the national language, though there are 57 local languages and dialects that descend from the kingdoms that existed prior to colonization.
When World War I began, Ivoirians (eh-VWAH-ree-anns) were mobilized with other western Africans to fight with and for France’s interest in the war. After the war, expansions were made within Côte d’Ivoire with regard to railroad and crops, resulting in Côte d’Ivoire producing 80% of the coffee and 90% of the cocoa in the region. They also introduced schools and Western medicine to the region. When World War II began, 40,000 Ivoirians again fought for and with the French. During this time, the British attempted to make inroads, creating discontent within the region, particularly among farmers.
Ivoirians use Palm plants to make a lot of products, including oil, wine, gin, soup, and cosmetics. In addition, the fiber from the oil is a very good source of energy. There are Palm plantations along the border with Ghana, and are plentiful on the drive from the Ghana border to the original capital of Grand Bassam.
The African Farmer’s Union was established in 1944 by two men, including Félix Houphouët-Boigny, after whom the Côte d’Ivoire international airport is named. He was subsequently elected to the French Assembly, and fought to have forced labor abolished throughout the region. In 1946, he was a co-founder of the African Democratic Rally, which fought for equality for Africans. In 1958, overseas territories of France were granted autonomy through the new French Constitution, and Côte d’Ivoire subsequently became and independent republic in 1960. Félix Houphouët-Boigny was the first president of Côte d’Ivoire and, despite reported coup attempts (in 1963 and 1973), he held office until his death in 1993.
Presidents now have a five-year term, though the current president has been president since the Civil War in 2000, which was prompted by the previous president not wanting to give power back after losing an election. In 2002, a failed coup resulted in a mutiny in the North. The French intervened and helped broker a peace deal with the United Nations; however, the old president broke the ceasefire, bombed the rebels, bombed the French, and chaos ensued. In 2007, the French pulled back and the war ended. Then, in 2010, the president who signed the peace deal lost the election, resulting in a more significant civil war, during which 3000 people died. The president was apprehended and taken to The Hague for trial. There continued to be unrest, including a mutiny in 2017. Eventually, the soldiers had their demands met, and things settled down. The current president has focused on the infrastructure of the country (e.g., roads), and while we were told that there continues to be (potential for) corruption in the country, his constituents are largely pleased with the progress he has made within the country.
In Côte d’Ivoire, 45% of the inhabitants practice Christianity, and 45% practice Islam. There are a small number of people who practice Voo Doo, and they are primarily people who have relocated from Togo or Benin. St. Paul’s Cathedral (photo above) is a prominent place of worship in Abidjan, as it hosted Pope John Paul II three times: to bless the first stone at the start of construction; to inaugurate the basilica after it was built; and when the president of Côte d’Ivoire died.
Grand Bassam
Grand Bassam was the capital of all of West Africa around 1949, and became the first capital city of Côte d’Ivoire, where the seat of power stayed for six years. It continues to have a king, as well, as kingdoms predate colonial rule.
There is a museum in Grand Bassam that showcases the history of Côte d’Ivoire through replicas of clothing and models of villages, reflecting the layers of history contained within the country.
Above is first newspaper established in Grand Bassam, which includes the news of 4000 women walking in 1949 from Abidjan to Grand Bassam to free their husbands (the photo and information for which are below).
Peace Square is a monument to the women who protested against French Colonial rulers in 1949. Their husbands had started to fight for independence after WWII because they returned from the war and realized that what they were fighting for (for France) had not been addressed/alleviated in the colonies. These men were subsequently put in jail. Four thousand (4000) women went to the police stations and slept there to free their husbands, who were eventually freed by the governor. The woman in front is pointing towards France, as it was the French governor who freed the men. This was the beginning of the fight towards independence.
Sixty percent (60%) of the Europeans who were in Côte d’Ivoire in the 19th century died from Malaria because they were not confident in the medical intervention provided by the Africans. The monument above reflects a woman (on top) whose husband (on the bottom) died before she could return with an intervention from a traditional African medicine doctor.
Côte d’Ivoire is a country steeped in history and has an established culture that has withstood significant atrocities over the course of time. Throughout its difficulties, it has found ways to maintain resilience and showcase its beauty. If you find yourself in northwestern Africa, Côte d’Ivoire is a place worth exploring. Until next time, take care and be well…