Greetings! We recently returned from a trip to The Republic of Benin (République du Bénin in French; hereafter referred to as Benin; bin-EEN; country #104), where we were able to experience the capital city [Porto Novo], the largest city [Ouidah; (wee-dah)], and the “Venice” of Africa [Ganvie; (gahn-vee-EH)]. Below, you will find information and photos from our trip. Please note that there are references to Voo Doo, which is widely practiced in this region. This should be considered neither an endorsement of nor for nor against the practice/culture associated with Voo Doo. Please also note that there are references to slavery within this post.
Benin is a sliver, key-shaped country, bordered by Togo on the west, Nigeria on the east, Burkina Faso to the northwest, Niger (nee-ZHAYR) to the northeast, and the Atlantic Ocean to the south. The roots of slavery stem from the west coast of Africa, and Benin has been identified as one of the primary ports from which slaves were shipped. As a result, they have a monument to the millions of slaves who left the continent through this port, never to return.
Benin had powerful kingdoms before they came under colonial rule, including in Porto Novo, which is the current capital of Benin. The Portuguese arrived in 1472 and began trading in Benin in 1533, and were joined by the Dutch, British, and French during the 17th century. In the 19th century, the country came under French rule, and the slave trade became the primary “export.” As a result, this area became known as the “Slave Coast” amongst Europeans, with Ouidah (wee-dah; now the largest city in Benin) becoming the primary location for slave trade. The slave trade devastated the population in Benin, but the travesty showcased the survival instincts that allowed the area, culture, and people to rise up again to establish themselves as a nation undeterred.
The French were pervasive in their attempts to continue to have control over Benin and into modern day Togo, and were rivaled by the British and the Germans. However, the French prevailed, and Benin came under control of the government of France. Eventually, Portuguese descendants came to the region to introduce/spread Christianity, yet the origins of the inhabitants – including their practice of Voo Doo – continued to be practiced. Benin eventually became independent in 1960, and was renamed the People’s Republic of Benin in 1975. Benin is a Democracy, the president of which is elected every 4 years, with a house of representatives in Porto Novo, as well as in Cotonou (koh-toh-NU). History buffs know that there is a lot more to the history of this region, but it should be noted that our tour guides did not share information about the events that have transpired since independence.
Indigenous people became Christians because of the proximity to Nigeria. Muslims also came to this area. Therefore, they added the mosque to the church, and the entire structure is used by Muslims.
Ganvie (gahn-vee-YAY) is the “Venice” of Africa. It is 200 hectares (494 acres) on a lake that is 280km (174mi) in size. While it has existed since 1770, it became a safe haven for the inhabitants in subsequent years, as they moved to this village to escape slavery. This is reflected in the name of the town, which means “we are safe and we find peace.” The river is one meter (three feet) deep during dry season, and can get much deeper during rainy/wet season. When the water level is low, artificial islands will emerge, and children are taught to walk on those islands. While most people stay in the village for their lifetime, about 400-500 leave the village to go to town (which is 8km/5mi, via canoe), mostly to go to university (at the University of Benin in Cotonou), and some will return to the village, usually to teach at the village school.
Children are usually able to swim by the age of 4, so, at that point, they are allowed to navigate a boat.
Fishing is the main activity in Ganvie, with the men catching the fish (often via net or fish farm) and the women taking the fish to town to sell. It can take eight months to three years to catch a large volume of fish (especially larger fish that can weigh 15-20kg/33-44lbs), which they will then sell.
There were several other places that we visited, including the Temple of Pythons and Sacred Forest of Ouidah, both of which allowed us to have a unique look at the role of Voo Doo and indigenous culture in Benin.
Temple of Pythons
what Ouidah used to be called)
Benin is a country that is multidimensional, with a lot of character that reflects their ability to rise up after adversity. Its rich culture has deep roots, and is a place that we would recommend others visit. Until next time, take care and be well…